Hellfest Open Air 2009 Review

Overcoming an initially dodgy reputation among festival-goers, Hellfest in Clisson, France has become the prime contender to usurp Wacken Open Air as Europe’s premier metal weekender. Germany’s much beloved metal Mecca might have the prestigious reputation but a glance at Hellfest’s incredibly varied line-up tells you who has the bands this year.

Hellfest has wisely imitated Wacken’s dual-main stage approach to ensure maximum musical saturation but also boasts logistical advantages over WOA with a huge supermarket only 10 minutes’ walk away, allowing festival-goers to stock up on fresh supplies and well-priced booze every day. This is just as well as on the other hand, the Clisson-fest’s on-site food prices are rather high and the less said about that awful, Download-blighting beer token system, the better. Oh, security could probably do with tightening in future as our party have fully pitched up before tickets are checked and wristbands issued.

These are of course, only minor quibbles when there’s such an incredible array of bands to enjoy over three days; so many in fact that watching half-sets is often begrudgingly necessary in order for this writer to sample as many bands as possible.

Day 1 – June 19th

Offering both welcome reason to evade the oppressive midday sun and an authoritative display of black thrashing metal, Melechesh (4/5) kick Hellfest off to a great start. Girlschool (3/5) are in full swing on the main stage as I head back to the camp for an afternoon top-up of alcohol and sun cream (underestimate the overcast weather’s potential for rendering one crisply crimson at your peril). Returning to the arena I find Eyehategod (4/5) enthralling the sludge faithful devotedly assembled at Mainstage 2. A band so notoriously downbeat really shouldn’t be hitting the spot so well on a summer afternoon; its with some regret that I tear myself away to the Rock Hard stage for the finale of Destroyer 666 (3/5). I forgot Soilent Green (sorry chaps) to meet a certain legendary Canadian band at the meet and greet stall. Some sampling of Buckcherry (3/5)’s enjoyably sleazy wares later and it’s time for the aforementioned Canuck experimentalists to provide the weekends first “fucking hell, never thought I’d see them” moment (a position Pentagram would have occupied had they not cancelled). Yes folks, the Voivod (3.5/5) has landed. Denis ‘Snake’ Belanger revels in the sole opportunity to speak his native language on this European festival jaunt as the likes of ‘Tribal Convictions’ and ‘Ravenous Medicine’ captivate the crowd. Entombed (3.5/5) kick off a death metal party while WASP (3/5) belt out the hits and overstay their welcome on Mainstage 2 as NOLA’s finest literally wait onstage next door for them to fuck off. Down (5/5) draw one of the craziest, most devoted crowds of the weekend and deliver a fantastic energised performance. As a huge Pantera fan, it’s truly satisfying to see Phil Anselmo back on top form at long last. Repulsion (3/5) offer “fucking hell…” moment number two and although like Voivod they’re no long lost untouchable live act, the grind devotees in attendance are too elated to care. Recent events in camp Anthrax (4/5) have shown that the promise displayed here by new frontman Dan Nelson goes unfulfilled but it’s worth noting how many long-time fans he converts here tonight with belting renditions of ‘I Am The Law’, ‘Caught In A Mosh’ and a cover of Refused’s ‘New Noise’ that serves as possibly the weekend’s most surreal moment. C’est la vie, as our gracious hosts would say. Heaven & Hell (5/5) have nothing whatsoever to prove to anyone but still perform like they do and are all the more magical for it. Metal artists worldwide take note: the genre’s godfathers and its greatest voice are still untouchable; Dio be praised. Saint Vitus (4.5/5) top off today’s trinity of “FH” moments with the best performance of the three. They conjure a magnificent psychedelic atmosphere and Wino’s maddened onstage persona is marvellous but he still loses them half a point for forgetting the lyrics to ‘Born Too Late’. Tut tut. Motley Crue (3/5) follow with an initially flat showing that gradually improves and marks a fun conclusion to day one. Whoever decided that ‘Home Sweet Home’ would make a fitting encore and show-closer definitely has their bandanna on too tight though.

Day 2 – June 20th

Saturday kicks off with terrific sets from Gama Bomb (4/5) and Grand Magus (4/5) proving that both the thrash and trad metal resurgences are nowhere near running out of steam. Some more meet and greet shenanigans later and I catch the final third of Vader (3.5/5) unleashing some Polish-made hell in the Rock Hard tent. On Mainstage 1, Devildriver (4/5) invoke Hellfest’s largest circle pit thus far, creating an enormous cloud from the sun-baked ground. All are left filthy and spitting dust but no less thrilled by the experience. It’s taken this writer a few years to finally witness Dez Fafara’s metal mob live and they were well worth the wait. Back to the Rock Hard stage, where Aura Noir (3.5/5) discharge some old school blasphemy and prove that not all throwback thrash need come with dayglow colours. Aided by the darkened environs of the tent, the Norwegians fare better than Cradle of Filth (3/5), who struggle to create any kind of atmosphere in the blazing sun. They mostly go through the motions but old favourites like ‘Cruelty Brought Thee Orchids’ still raise plenty of smiles - who says Goths are all miserable? Like a nice pint of cider, Clutch (4/5) go down extremely with the summer weather as they jam and offer up recent classics. Wino later joins them onstage although by then I’m back across the site watching Moonsorrow (3.5/5). With bands literally starting minutes after another has finished, Hellfest is definitely not a venue for those adverse to frequent leg work. Anyway, the Finns impress although I’d undoubtedly feel further engaged were I more familiar with their material. As long time festival veterans, Max Cavalera and Soulfly (3.5/5) know exactly how to get a field of punters jumping like madmen. Sure, it’s the Sepultura numbers that invoke the most lunacy but is it even worth caring anymore? They play ‘Roots Bloody Roots’, everyone goes batshit loco; job done. Introduced by Eyehategod’s Mike Williams, Amebix (3/5) seem to be the band for the “in the know” contingent judging by the reduced crowd. Again, I’m unfamiliar with their songs but they’re enjoyable enough nonetheless. Gojira (4.5/5) are naturally, welcomed like conquering heroes and it’s a thrill to watch them playing in their homeland to a huge and distinctly mental crowd. Despite claims of needing rest, they show no signs of fatigue and remain crushingly tight as ever. Très bon. Vive la Gojira. Yet more half and half-ing now and it arguably couldn’t be more contrasting as I sample the epic Viking metal of Enslaved (3.5/5) and classic horror punk by the Misfits (3.5/5), both of whom are fine in their own respective ways. Such a well packed bill is proving to be both a blessing and feet-punishing curse but I soldier on regardless. Another band who have festival crowd demolition down to a fine art are Machine fucking Head (5/5) and as usual, they’re bloody brilliant and leave chaos in their wake. A different setlist from the last two years makes the experience all the better and long-dormant numbers like ‘Ten Ton Hammer’ and ‘Struck A Nerve’ are rapturously received. Fellow US thrashers Sacred Reich (4.5/5) can’t quite match for intensity but they have a damn good try and deliver one of the sets of the weekend. As the morbidly curious and devotedly delusional head for the main stage, the rest are thrilled by some old school hardcore by the Cro-Mags (3.5/5). By this time I’m all thrashed out and too tired to get stuck in but still having plenty of fun and judging by the mass arena exodus that Marilyn Manson’s tuneless half-arsed caterwauling provokes, I picked the right band to cap off my day. In the camp site his cat-strangling routine temporarily sullies the party atmosphere and I start to realise how metal-hating folk who reside near festivals must feel. For this, Brian Warner earns himself (1/5).

Day 3 – June 21st

French symphonic metallers Adagio (3/5) are the first act I catch today but they leave little impression, unlike Dutch bruisers Aborted (4/5), who really get the day started with a glorious bombardment of modern death metal. Though associated with the much maligned “deathcore” movement, they kick just as much arse as the Morbid Angels and Deicides of the world, making such genre tags even more irrelevant than they are already. Washington’s Wolves In The Throne Room (4/5) create an engagingly icy atmosphere which is aided all the more by the reduced confines of the Terrorizer tent and the shaded spot in which it’s located. Some brief camera trouble forces me to miss most of Kataklysm (3/5) but I’m back in time for Dragonforce (3/5) on Mainstage 1. They’re good fun as usual and for once they actually have a decent sound on a large stage (their tech-hampered lead balloon performance at Download ’07 still lingers in this reviewers mind) so it’s a pity it’s not loud enough. Surely a band this popular can find a decent sound tech somewhere? Some festival organiser somewhere deserves a slap for booking reunited death metallers Pestilence (3.5/5) to clash with Teutonic thrash legends Destruction (4/5). Another regrettable 50/50 split occurs but the shortened viewings of both bands are fully savoured. Thankfully no one clashes with UK stalwarts Orange Goblin (4/5) as this is my first time seeing them (yes I know, embarrassing). An awesome performance of British metal follows and after that it’s time for another as Napalm Death (4.5/5) are busy unleashing dystopian hell in the Rock Hard tent. Killer cuts from latest album ‘Time Waits For No Slave’ and old school favourites are all well received but the biggest cheer greets a brief (but no less thrilling) vocal cameo by Lee Dorrian. That’s Hellfest 2009’s “you should have been there” moment right there. I forgot Queensryche – mainly as cuts from their latest album leave me indifferent – for refreshments. Mastodon (3.5/5) are next and while they may well have delivered the album of the year in ‘Crack The Skye’, their live vocal abilities are lacking and consequently they fail to bring their latest release’s spiralling ethereal sorcery to the stage. ‘Crystal Skull’ and ‘Blood and Thunder’ still provide prime sonic bludgeoning though. Lee Dorrian’s back on the Rock Hard stage but this time fronting Cathedral (4/5). Though largely absent from the live circuit in recent years, they’ve lost none of their magic and the stomping groove of ‘Hopkins (Witchfinder General’) remains irresistible. It’s a mixture of the faithful and the curious that gather to watch Europe (3.5/5). The former collective are thrilled while the latter nod politely awaiting ‘The Final Countdown’ and go bonkers when that almighty synth-riff takes off. The band themselves are a highly competent and professional live act that belie the joke tag many have stamped upon them. US crossover legends Suicidal Tendencies (4/5) cause glorious mayhem on Mainstage 2, first by firing out the hits and then by prompting a stage invasion thereby winning the award for security’s least favourite band of the weekend. By now the night has fallen and I’m heading to the Terrorizer stage to be hypnotised by Electric Wizard (5/5). Visible only as silhouettes onstage, the Dorset misanthropes are the one doom band this weekend that seem truly otherworldly and the mesmerizingly haunting vibe they conjure with their mountainous riffage is utterly brilliant. Hell, they’re possibly even louder and heavier than a certain kingly band due to appear in an hour or so. Theirs is the performance of the weekend in terms of impact if not spectacle. Expecting a sardine-tin crowd experience like with Iron Maiden at last year’s Wacken, I miss Amon Amarth and usher my way through the crowd during the climax of Dream Theater (3.5/5 for some very nifty soloing) to secure a good spot for tonight’s main event. This later proves to be an unnecessary move but what the hell, Hatebreed (3/5) are doing a fine job on Mainstage 2 despite there being too much feedback audible where I’m standing. A stampeding run-through of Black Flag’s ‘Thirsty and Miserable’ marks the highlight of their set. Manowar (5/5) are a lot like WWE: you either get it or you don’t. The same can be said of their live performances. It’s possibly the most overblown and ridiculously hammy show you’re likely to see but that’s exactly what we Manowarriors expect; modesty and subtlety have no place here. Opening with their titular anthem and unleashing classics like ‘Blood of My Enemies’ and ‘Kill With Power’ with requisite pomp and bombast, the Kings of Metal can do no wrong with this crowd, even when they devote half of their stage time to OTT speeches and inviting one lucky fan onstage for a jam. Okay, they’re no Iron Maiden but they still deliver a spectacular show and the atmosphere is unbeatable. Singing along during ‘Warriors of The World’ while viewing the various flags on display should be enough to warm anyone’s heart - metalhead or otherwise - in this age of constant racial tension. It’s a rousing reminder of why this writer remains a proud member of the metal subculture. A better end to a fantastic weekend of music could not be asked for. Other bands played, Manowar killed.